8:06 PM, Lake Chickahominy, Oregon, September 4
How remarkable it is to sit in dry, brown central Oregon and
watch the sun set ruby red over a lake.
As the red fades to a soft orange, the coyotes start their evening song,
only to be interrupted by flight after flight of Canada geese seeking a resting
place for the night. It's so quiet here
that you can hear the sound of the heavy goose bodies hitting the water,
creating almost a roar of waves.
Birds are a vocal lot.
Tonight, sandpipers warble to one another, geese keep up their constant
conversation, but the ducks have gone strangely quiet. Maybe, like me, their
attention is drawn to stars and planets as they emerge from overhead gray, the
Big Dipper coming visible.
I'm on my way to Steen's Mountain, a place where I've spent
little time and a place I want to get to know better. The first night's journey has brought me to
Lake Chickahominy, a reservoir which is fed, appropriately enough, by
Chickahominy Creek. If you check your
map, this place is about smack in the middle of Oregon, and only 5.6 miles from
Riley. Riley, Oregon is a one-building
town, home to the "Riley Store and Archery". The store is something of an oasis in these
parts, as it's another 30-some odd miles to Baker to the east, a little further
to Wagontire to the south, and even further back west to Hamilton, which
wouldn't do you any good as there isn't anything there any more. If there ever was.
My little pop-up is parked in a campground on Lake
Chickahominy, and it must be noted that for the very first time in my life I
entered a vault toilet here that was clean and actually smelled good, sort of a
minty, chewing gum kind of smell. Remarkable.
The lake must be good fishing, for whoever established this
campground (only $5/night, many of the sites on the water) built a
fish-cleaning station, which, it must be said, is closed, perhaps for the
season.
I had forgotten how quiet in can be in central Oregon. This campground is far enough from Highway 20
that car traffic doesn't impose much, and there is so little of it that there
are long patches of only the sounds of nature.
Here, that's the breeze, the birds, and coyotes when they can get a word
in edgewise.
Tomorrow, a quick stop in Burns, then south to Frenchglen.
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